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Tilted basalt layers make up most of Isle Royale.
only had two full days on the island and knew it would be impossible to see it all. Thus, we elected to sample a bit of each activity. Maybe that was just to feel more accomplished after the long travel just to get there. More likely, it was to allow us to determine what we enjoyed most so that we might narrow our focus should we ever return for subsequent visits.
IRNP is a hiker’s paradise, whether casual day-hiking or through-hiking the island’s full length. There are more than 165 miles of trails on Isle Royale. After our morning arrival, we had enough time to complete the 5-mile Stoll Memorial Trail, which heads east from the lodge to Scoville Point. Along the way we spotted bald eagles in flight, an eaglet high in a massive nest awaiting dinner, a lone moose and ancient copper mining pits. All but a half-mile of the trail can be done as a loop, and around every corner is a new sweeping vista of varied spits of land jutting out into Lake Superior.
On Day 2, we took advantage of the calm, clear morning to kayak across Tobin Harbor and then hike up to Lookout Louise, where you can see Minnesota and Ontario on a clear day. We then connected with the Greenstone Ridge Trail. After about 6 miles of hiking, we were back at the dock for a leisurely picnic lunch before getting back in the kayaks for more water touring within the protected harbor. This included many opportunities to stop and watch seaplane arrivals and departures from only a short but safe distance. After returning the kayaks, we headed west from the lodge on foot to Suzy’s Cave and other points of interest along connecting loop trails. The network of trails makes it easy to avoid backtracking. By the end of the day, we’d put in well over 10 miles on foot and many more miles paddling. The quaint Lighthouse Restaurant at Rock Harbor Lodge quelled our appetites. They will even cook your day’s catch.
Day 3 dawned cool and drizzly. While not ideal, it allowed us to enjoy water taxi rides to points farther west. We paid attention to the location of the various water taxi docks as we hiked. Timing was critical, as missing a boat could mean a long wait for the next one or many more miles on the trail than planned. We joined a crowd of damp campers and hikers for lunch back at the lodge’s Greenstone Grill. Many were checked out of the lodge, like us, and waiting for rides back to the mainland.
We’d been unable to secure seaplane tickets for our return to Michigan, so we boarded the “faster” ferry option to Copper Harbor. After pitching and rolling in moderate waves for four-plus hours, we finally arrived with two of us feeling fine and two wishing not to see a boat again anytime soon! The car service we’d arranged had waited patiently for our ship’s late arrival. Less than an hour after arriving, we were back at the seaplane base and our rental car.
Departures
Isle Royale’s terrain varies dramatically from the bare and tilted basalt rocks of the east end to the highly vegetated glacial till of the west end. In a single hike of only an hour or so, you’ll likely experience ridges and uplands, valleys and steep slopes, swamps and lakes, warm open fields of wildflowers and cool densely shaded forests. The peaceful surroundings, filled almost exclusively with the sounds of nature, seem to be enhanced beyond your ability to absorb them fully.
Condititions can vary dramatically from day to day, even at the height of summer. Carrying clothing for wide temperature ranges is a must. Lodging is a throw-back experience whether you choose the lodge, cabins or tent camping. Transportation can be challenging, exciting, unpredictable and exhausting. However, when you add it all together, the total experience is certainly greater than the sum of its parts. Isle Royale is worth the wait – and the effort. KA
Copyright 2025, Matthew McDaniel
First publication rights granted to Village Press for King Air magazine. All other rights reserved by copyright holder.
Matthew McDaniel is a Master & Gold Seal CFII, ATP, MEI, AGI/IGI and Platinum CSIP. In 35 years of flying, he has logged nearly 23,000 hours, including 6,000+ instruction-given hours and 2,500+ hours in various King Airs and BE-1900D. He owns Progressive Aviation Services, LLC (progaviation.com), where he specializes in technically advanced aircraft and glass cockpit instruction. He also is a Boeing 737-series captain for an international airline, holds eight turbine aircraft type ratings and has flown more than 140 aircraft types. Matt is one of
fewer than 15 instructors in the world to have earned the Master CFI designation for 11 consecutive two-year terms. Reach him at matt@ progaviation.com or 414-339-4990.
JANUARY 2025
KING AIR MAGAZINE • 31